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The Definitive Guide to Beauty for Men and Women
Microdermabrasion is a non-surgical method of rejuvenation by means of mechanical skin exfoliation without chemicals or laser. It offers a modern, virtually painless alternative to chemical and laser peels and is a versatile procedure that can be combined with other treatments to help achieve the desired results. In other words, it sandblasts off the top layer of skin. Similar to when a building has the outer surface blasted off.
Facial skin resurfacing is not new to the 21st century. It can be traced back to ancient Egyptian times when they applied abrasive masks of alabaster particles. From then on, various substances have been used to peel, exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin. These substances include acids, poultices of minerals and plants, and direct irritants such as fire and sandpaperlike materials. There is a rumour that Queen Elizabeth I used lime on her face. She thought it would make her look younger and that it would get rid of her wrinkles. When it was washed off, it created a rough, exfoliating treatment, little did she realise that it was a poison!
The evolution of chemical peeling and dermabrasion in common use today began in the early 20th century. Recently, the use of selective photothermolysis (removal by light) in the form of laser resurfacing has become widespread. However, microdermabrasion is not as harsh.
The treatment was developed in Italy in 1985. Its use was widespread in European countries prior to its introduction and popularity in the USA. This technology offers the advantages of low risk and rapid recovery compared with more traditional resurfacing treatments.
For fine lines and more superficial scars, microdermabrasion can be an effective treatment with minimal risk and rapid recovery, however, it can be ineffective for deeper wrinkles or scars.
The most commonly treated area is the face, but microdermabrasion can be used effectively on the neck, hands, and chest. The depth of the treatment depends on the strength of flow of the crystals, the rate of movement of the handpiece against the skin and the number of passes over the treatment area. Slower movement of the handpiece (allowing longer contact of the abrasive crystals with the skin) and more passes, achieves deeper abrasion.
No premedication is necessary, unless desired. Prior to the procedure, the skin is cleaned of all makeup and oil. No topical or local anesthetic is necessary, although its use is not precluded. Contact lenses should be removed and eye protection is placed to prevent injury from stray particles.
This non-surgical skin resurfacing procedure immediately restores smoother younger looking skin and is great for treating the following skin conditions:
The Treatment
Medical microdermabrasion is performed by passing a hand held device that uses a highly controlled flow of fine, medical grade crystals over the skin. These crystals, delivered at high velocity onto the skin surface are immediately vacuumed away, taking the top-most layer of dead skin cells with it. This skin exfoliating process improves the tone and texture of the skin and also reveals the new, living skin cells that are soft and smooth. Following medical microdermabrasion the skin is in a better condition to absorb anti-ageing and acne creams. At the same time the underlying epidermis is also stimulated by the treatment and this promotes new collagen, thickening the dermis and improving the resistance to the effects of ageing. A variety of microdermabraders are available on the market. Several components are common to all systems and include a pump that generates a high-pressure stream of aluminum oxide or salt crystals and recently a diamond-type, a connecting tube that delivers the crystals to the handpiece, a handpiece and a vacuum to remove the crystals and exfoliated skin. The crystals are then discarded. Handpieces are available in disposable and reusable types. The reusable handpieces must be resterilised after each use. Microdermabrasion can be performed by a physician, nurse or licensed aesthetician. Please check that they have the required training and usage certificates on the machine they are carrying out the treatment on.
The results are instant, and unlike chemical peels, microdermabrasion usually does not require a preparation prior to treatment. One of the many advantages of microdermabrasion is that it can be used on all skin types, young and old, male and female with no recovery time needed post treatment.
Each treatment takes approximately 45 minutes. In order to achieve the maximum effect, a series of at least 5 treatments is required, one treatment per week.
This relatively simple and uninvasive treatment may begin immediately following a consultation. Similar to a gentle peel, the treatment can also improve fine lines and wrinkles, dislodge blackheads and whiteheads and treat superficial pigmentation. Microdermabrasion results in skin that not only feels softer and smoother, but also has a healthy-looking glow.
The treatment can also be used on tattooed skin as it is so mild. It is also good for freckles . They can be removed through several sessions of microdermoabrasion. The micro-crystal flow abrades the top layer of the skin where unevenly pigmented skin cells are stuck.Microdermabrasion is good for several skin conditions:
Treatment RisksMicrodermabrasion may be one of the most popular non-surgical skin resurfacing procedures but it's not completely free of risks or contraindications. After treatment, skin is reddish and can feel sore, as though you have just stood in a gale force wind.
If you are pregnant/nursing, or a teenager (under 14 years old), hormones can inhibit or change the effects of microderma abrasion. It's best to wait until the hormones settle down.
If you have been using Accutane recently, it may cause serious damage to your skin. Accutane increases skin sensitivity which is why you should wait 6-12 months before having ANY skin resurfacing technique, not just micro derma abrasion. The same applies to recent laser surgery.
Most doctors also agree that microdermabrasion is not recommended to keratosis sufferers, people with undiagnosed lesions, active rosacea or severe acne (although people with mild acne have seen good results), weeping acne (stages 3 to 4), diabetes, auto-immune disorders, fragile capillaries, eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis or lupus, active herpes lesions or malignant skin tumors (warts).
When the microdermabrasion machine is not properly handled or has not been properly sterilised, it can result in hyperpigmentation, skin injuries or infections (extremely rare, but possible). It's also possible to inhale micro crystals from the machines used during the procedure. Aluminum oxide crystals, however, (the most common abrasive agent used in micro dermabrasion) cause no allergic or adverse reactions. They are neither toxic nor non-carcinogenic. Ingesting micro crystals in extremely large quantities, however, can cause respiratory problems - but so would dust (extremely unlikely, but possible). There have been reports about people having eye problems after stray crystals from microbrasion machines found their way into the eyes during treatment. This shouldn't happen in this day-and-age as all plastic surgeries, spas and beauty salons offer special eye protection (plastic or rubber goggles) during microdermabrasion.
Micro dermabrasion is not recommended after chemical peeling (glycolic acid, salicylic acid, phenol, TCA, Jessner or any other kind of peel) in the last 14 days. The two exfoliating procedures combined are too aggressive and might affect the skin's ability to recover. This applies to personal creams and professional treatment.
Acne patients using a hydrocortisone cream such as Retin-A or accutane should discontinue using these creams at least one week before receiving microdermabrasion treatment.
As the treatment can alter the skin's colour balance (in other words, you may get dark or light patches from microdermabrasion), it's important to remember that scarring and pigmentary changes are common complications for other skin rejuvenation techniques, such as laser resurfacing, dermal abrasion and chemical peels. The reason the risk is so small with microdermabrasion is because it's a very gentle procedure. It only removes the top layer of skin (which is formed only of dead skin cells), leaving the live tissue underneath intact. However, it's a well known fact that people with darker skin (Type IV, V and VI on the Fitzpatrick Scale) are more prone to pigment problems and while the risk of micro dermabrasion tampering with the pigmentary equilibrium is very small (smallest of all rejuvenation procedures) with darker skin types, it's still there.
Fitzpatrick Skin Scale
The Fitzpatrick Scale helps dermatologists predict how skin may react to different cosmetic procedures and tell which techniques are best suited for it. For example, a Fitzpatrick Type I person will respond better to laser resurfacing for wrinkle removal than a Type IV.
Type I: Skin is white; it always burns in the sun and never tansType II: Skin is white; it usually burns in the sun and tans with difficultyType III: Skin is white; it burns mildly in the sun and tans moderatelyType IV: Skin is moderate brown; it rarely burns and tans easilyType V: Skin is dark brown; it rarely burns and tans very easilyType VI: Skin is black; it never burns and tans very easily
The Crystals
Aluminum oxide is the second hardest mineral (diamonds are first). The irregular crystal shape makes them a more effective abrader. Aluminum oxide is also an inert material and it causes no allergic or adverse reactions. It is not toxic when ingested and is non-carcinogenic. Sodium bicarbonate crystals are an organic alternative to aluminum oxide crystals but they are a lot softer and less effective in microderma abrasion. They are used on patients with hyperpigmentation and can be easily washed off after treatment (sodium bicarbonate is water-soluble). Diamond Microdermabrasion (Crystal-Free)The regular crystal microdermabrasion technology involves the use of a special, hand-held device that propels a high-speed flow of aluminum oxide crystals onto the skin. The diamond dermabrasion system, on the other hand, replaces the micro-crystal flow with a disposable or reusable diamond tip wand. Areas closer to the eyes and mouth can be abraded more accurately with diamond abrasion (no risk of stray crystals causing damage or being ingested). Other than that, crystal-free microdermabration works in the same way traditional microabrasion does.
Diamond microderm machines usually come with tipped wands of varied size and coarseness for different skin types and depths of resurfacing. The wand tip is made of natural diamond chips which polish the skin and remove dead cells, which are then vacuumed back into a waste filter. Many professionals prefer natural diamond tips because they are easier to control and don't irritate the skin (natural minerals are less likely to trigger adverse reactions).
When the treatment is finished, a sunblock should always be applied. Never go out into direct sunlight.
There are home versions of microdermabrasion treatments, Renewex by Roc, Dermasponge Deluxe Microdermabrasion System* from To Make You Gorgeous, Olay Regenerist Microdermabrasion and mini peel kit, No7 Total Renewal Microdermabrasion Body Exfoliator. I am a keen fan of microdermabrasion treatments in the salon, the feeling is phenomenal. However, I will be trying out home kits and reporting them back to you. If you have tried any yourself and would like to share your experiences, then please contact us.
As with all treatments, mychoicebeauty.com advise that a GPs advice is sought. Always do your homework and ask questions.
For your nearest salon, beauty therapist or technician that carries out microdermabrasion, just search here. Type in microdermabrasion as the keyword.
LisaLisa Claber MCIPRmychoicebeauty.com
Sheila, 48, from Burton says: "I've just finished using the Dermasponge Deluxe Microdermabrasion System and it's brilliant! My friends think it has made my skin look far less wrinkled. I'm definitely buying some more"